Stitches
Waffle Stitch: Chart, Multiple and Gauge Effect
Waffle stitch is worked over a multiple of 3 stitches plus 1, alternating front post double crochet and regular double crochet to build a raised square grid. It uses roughly 30% more yarn than plain double crochet over the same finished area, because post stitches wrap around the row below rather than sitting on top of it. It also produces a much thicker, denser fabric, which makes it excellent for blankets and dishcloths and poor for anything that needs to drape.
Waffle stitch produces a deep, square, raised grid that looks considerably more complicated than it is. It uses two stitches you probably already know — double crochet and front post double crochet — and the whole texture comes from alternating them in a fixed rhythm.
It also has two properties most tutorials never mention: it eats yarn, and it pulls in. Both matter before you start a blanket.
The multiple
Multiple of 3, plus 1, plus 2 for the turning chain.
So for a 30-stitch swatch: 30 = 3 × 10, plus 1 = 31, plus 2 = chain 33.
Get this wrong and the raised columns stop stacking above each other. The pattern turns into diagonals within a few rows and there is no way to correct it except to rip back.
The pattern
Worked in US terms.
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 3 + 1, plus 2.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Dc in first st. *FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across, ending dc in last st. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2. Dc in first st. *FPdc around the FPdc below, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across. Turn.
Rows 4 onward: Repeat Row 3.
The whole texture is in Row 3, repeated. Each front post double crochet must go around the post of the front post stitch directly below it — that is what stacks the raised columns into vertical lines and creates the square grid between them.

The yarn penalty
This is the part that catches people out on large projects.
A front post double crochet wraps around the post of the stitch below rather than sitting on top of two loops. That path is longer, so it uses more yarn. In waffle stitch one stitch in three is a post stitch, and the compounding effect is substantial:
| Stitch pattern | Yarn used, same finished area |
|---|---|
| Plain double crochet | baseline |
| Half double crochet | about 10% more |
| Waffle stitch | about 30% more |
| Basketweave | about 35% more |
| Bobble stitch | about 45% more |
Measured by working two swatches to identical finished dimensions in the same yarn and weighing them. Your figure will vary with tension — a tight crocheter can reach 40%.
The practical consequence: if you are adapting a plain double crochet blanket pattern that calls for 1,200 yards, budget at least 1,560 yards for the waffle version. Running out of a dye lot two-thirds of the way through a blanket is a miserable way to learn this.
It pulls in
A waffle swatch is narrower than a plain double crochet swatch worked over the same number of stitches — usually by 10–15%. The post stitches pull the fabric horizontally as they wrap around the row below.
So swatch before you commit to a width. If a plain dc pattern says 120 stitches gives you 40 inches, waffle stitch over 120 stitches will give you something closer to 34–36. Add stitches in multiples of 3 until your swatch measures right.
Vertically it behaves normally — row height is much the same as plain double crochet.
What it is for
The fabric is thick, dense, structured and warm. That is exactly right for:
- blankets and afghans, where the trapped air makes it warm out of proportion to its weight
- dishcloths and bath mats, where the texture scrubs and the density lasts
- cushion covers and basket sides, which want to hold their shape
- potholders, where the thickness is the point
It is the wrong stitch for garments, shawls, or anything that needs to fall softly. A waffle stitch cardigan is stiff, heavy and hot, and no amount of blocking will make it drape.
Hook size
Go up half a size to a full size from what the ball band recommends. Waffle stitch is dense by nature, and a hook at the recommended size produces a fabric stiff enough to stand up on its own. For worsted weight, a 5.5 mm instead of a 5.0 mm is usually right — see the hook size chart for equivalents.
Common questions
What is the stitch multiple for waffle stitch?
A multiple of 3 plus 1, then add 2 more for the turning chain. So for a swatch 30 stitches wide you would chain 33 (30 = 3 × 10, plus 1, plus 2 for the turning chain). Getting the multiple wrong is why a waffle pattern drifts out of alignment — the raised columns stop lining up above each other and the grid breaks after a few rows.
How much more yarn does waffle stitch use?
About 30% more than plain double crochet for the same finished dimensions, and it can reach 40% with a tight tension. Front post stitches travel around the post of the stitch below instead of sitting directly on top of it, so each one consumes noticeably more yarn. If you are converting a plain double crochet blanket pattern to waffle stitch, buy at least a third more yarn than the original pattern states.
Does waffle stitch curl?
Less than most textured stitches, because the front and back post stitches pull in opposite directions and largely cancel out. What it does instead is pull in horizontally — a waffle swatch is noticeably narrower than a plain double crochet swatch of the same stitch count. Allow for that when planning width, and add 10–15% more stitches than a plain dc pattern would need for the same finished measurement.
What is waffle stitch good for?
Blankets, cushion covers, dishcloths, potholders and bath mats — anything where thickness, absorbency and structure are wanted. The deep texture traps air, which makes it warm, and the density makes it hard-wearing. It is a poor choice for garments, shawls or anything needing drape: the fabric is stiff and heavy, and a waffle stitch cardigan hangs like board.
Why is my waffle stitch not forming squares?
Usually the post stitches are not stacking. Each front post double crochet must be worked around the post of the front post stitch directly below it, not around a regular dc. If the columns drift sideways by one stitch, the grid turns into diagonal lines. Count your stitches at the end of every row and check that each raised column sits directly above the one beneath it before continuing.